Showing posts with label engine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label engine. Show all posts
Saturday, July 22, 2017
A funny engine story
That is the story that is funny and not the engine!
This is number one of a series of tales on diesel engines, some of which I had never heard of until very recently.
From a friend.
This is number one of a series of tales on diesel engines, some of which I had never heard of until very recently.
From a friend.
Here’s something for you……
As I have already mentioned, I started my marine engineering career as a Cadet Officer with a shipping line near Cape Town .
Anyhow, we ran a well-equipped and -staffed ship-repair workshop and chandling store on the ground floor of its marine offices at No. 5 Quay. It also serviced RFD and Dunlop liferafts for the industry on those premises. That building was subsequently demolished to make way for the Victoria Shopping Mall – the white flag-mast outside marks the location of the the local offices. (At the invitation of the V&A developers I designed that flag-mast. Please salute it when you next visit !)
Sometime in 1966 my ship arrived and berthed at the cargo-working quay, No. 6 Quay – now the site of the Table Bay Hotel. As usual the elderly German workshop foreman came aboard for coffee and to enquire about any urgent repairs we might have. He told us about an engine runaway in the workshop a few days earlier which was very comical but could have had serious or even fatal consequences.
It concerned a single-cylinder Deutz winch engine from one of the fleet’s smaller ships. This engine had two very large flywheels, overhanging the engine at each end of the crankshaft. The engine ran at about 300 rpm with tremendous torque, blowing smoke-rings with each “doeff- doeff” sort of thing. It was clutch-connected to the winch. The engine foundation on deck was effectively a raised plinth or pedestal, necessary to give clearance for these two large diameter flywheels, the visual proportions of which were reminiscent of the rear wheels of a tractor.
This engine had been in the workshop for some repair and before being returned to its ship needed to be test-run. It seemed that a make-shift plinth had been provided on which to temporarily plonk the engine for the test. A fuel “tank” was apparently something like an upside-down Brasso tin with a copper pipe soldered into the screw-cap. To aid starting provision existed for the use of percussion cartridges which looked like cigarettes that were inserted into a special holder in the cylinder head. The engine started with a bang on the first revolution of the flywheel, surprising all involved, and enthusiastically increased revs with each “doeff”. It promptly vacated its temporary seat, and resembling a tractor with a drunk driver at the wheel, it took off with wheel-spin on the concrete floor. Each collision with lathes, concrete pillars, etc., caused extreme changes of direction accompanied by flying chips of plasterwork, concrete, paint, crushed cans, escaping compressed air, etc, as it chased its “rescuers” around the place. It eventually expired against a wall where it wheel-spun until it either ran out of juice or somebody killed it. The workshop atmosphere was clouded with a heavy mix of exhaust smoke and cement / concrete dust. By then the rims of the flywheels had the appearance of having been chromed. In his thick German accent the foreman had us in stiches describing the fast unfolding scene of devastation.
We went to inspect the damage – there was lots of it – concrete chunks, damaged machines, crushed boxes and equipment in the workshop – but fortunately no one was injured and the engine itself was not too badly hurt. If it had “escaped” through the open workshop door it could have run amok on the quayside, slamming into parked vehicles or even committed suicide by plunging off the quay into the dock.
There was at least some “colour” in those days before health and safety killed the radio show…… But I never forgot the lesson about the consequences of an engine runaway.
Enjoy your day,
Monday, April 10, 2017
How to remove a dip stick tube from a Jaguar 3 8 XK engine
This is a subject I could not find anywhere on the web, I suppose its not often that an owner of a circa 1966 Jaguar, maybe the 3.4ltr or 3.8ltr, even the 4.2ltr engine finds that the dip stick will not come out of its tube into the lower side of the block?
Click on any picture for a larger image, which shows a Jaguar dip stick in one piece and also in two pieces and with the tube that fits to the side of the engine block. The cross bar it a pipe flaring tube.
In the case of the engine I was working on, the dip stick broke off about four years back when it became stuck, how to remove the tube it fits into was the question. Since then I just changed the oil every so often, the engine uses very little oil, so this was not an issue.
With the rear exhaust manifold in the way there is virtually no space to work in and while vice grips may do the job, they will be too large to fit in the space where the tube fits. I instead used a copper pipe flaring tool, the thought that I may squash the tube came to mind but its very thick walled and that was not an issue. I found I could move the tube from side to side, then as I did that and pulled on the tool, the pipe finally came out and with it the lower end of the dip stick!
Why the dip stick tube was bent is a question for another day, the thing was could I remove it?
The tube is hand made and has been machined down to fit the block.
When straightened in a vice I found the spare dip stick would still not quite slide through the tube, using a 7mm drill bit and electric power drill sorted that problem out.
How hard was that!
Roy
In the case of the engine I was working on, the dip stick broke off about four years back when it became stuck, how to remove the tube it fits into was the question. Since then I just changed the oil every so often, the engine uses very little oil, so this was not an issue.
With the rear exhaust manifold in the way there is virtually no space to work in and while vice grips may do the job, they will be too large to fit in the space where the tube fits. I instead used a copper pipe flaring tool, the thought that I may squash the tube came to mind but its very thick walled and that was not an issue. I found I could move the tube from side to side, then as I did that and pulled on the tool, the pipe finally came out and with it the lower end of the dip stick!
The tube is made from two parts, the top cone being brazed onto the actual tube.
Why the dip stick tube was bent is a question for another day, the thing was could I remove it?
The tube is hand made and has been machined down to fit the block.
When straightened in a vice I found the spare dip stick would still not quite slide through the tube, using a 7mm drill bit and electric power drill sorted that problem out.
How hard was that!
Roy
Friday, March 10, 2017
Yanmar GM10 diesel engine refuses to crank over and start
Captain Notty,
Re the Yanmar GM10 on my genset not cranking:
The big hammer idea is quite common it seems?
http://www.cruisersforum.com/
I will also check the panel out and open up the in line fuse, its not as is my engine has many hours on it, about 450 I guess and nice and clean and dry.
Athol, is this the forum you were talking about?
Folks, I wish engine fault fixes were always as easy as this one, my thanks to
www.crusisersforum.com
for hosting and posting the many stories on the problem with Yanmar engine starting.
www.crusisersforum.com
for hosting and posting the many stories on the problem with Yanmar engine starting.
I used a soft faced copper/leather hammer, it says 1 on it, one Kg I guess?
With the ignition key in the ON position and the start button pressed IN , the soft face of the hammer was knocked onto the side of the solenoid of the 12v starter motor, the engine soon started to crank and I was able to run the engine up to full temperature for the first time in some months.
Switching the engine off, a restart in the normal manner was possible, the hammer remains on the boat for now!
Note, 24 hours later and the hammer was required again, its time to remove the starter and service the solenoid I think.
Then the next three days and the engine cranked and started on the button each time so maybe not?
Note, 24 hours later and the hammer was required again, its time to remove the starter and service the solenoid I think.
Then the next three days and the engine cranked and started on the button each time so maybe not?
Regards,
Roy
Thursday, February 16, 2017
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Friday, September 30, 2016
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