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Wednesday, July 26, 2017

Goldsmith Island More fish great beach a badly anchored naughty cat and a storm

Stingray Bay on Goldsmith Island

13-14 November 2016

After a couple of fantastic days in Sea Eagle Bay on Thomas Island we raised the anchor at the extremely civilised hour of 9.15 AM and set sail for our next stop at Stingray Bay on Goldsmith Island. It was only a short, ten mile hop so, with a modest northerly pushing us along downwind, we elected to run with just a poled out genoa and didn’t bother to raise the main or mizzen. We got along very comfortably at a relaxed four knots until we reached the passage between Goldsmith and Linne Islands. Here the adverse outgoing current met the northerly wind generating a short, sharp chop that combined with the tidal flow to bring us almost to a dead stop. We soon gave up on wind power alone and started the engine to push on through the overfalls that were developing.

Sailing downwind with headsail only.

Battling the currents between Linne and Goldsmith Islands

Once out the other side the water was beautifully smooth as we turned into Stingray Bay. We anchored far into the bay as close as we felt comfortable to the fringing reef in about five metres of water over good holding sand. There was only one other boat in the anchorage when we arrived and it was on the far side of the bay. With miles of swing room around us, we laid out forty five metres of chain to allow for the rising tide and just to be safe in case an unexpected south easterly should blow up which would see us on a lee shore with coral not far behind our keel. We then had a nice lunch on board and a relaxing afternoon taking in our surroundings.

Sea Eagle Bay, Thomas Island to Stingray Bay, Goldsmith Island – 9.7 Nautical Miles
Average Speed 3.7 Knots – Max Speed 6.4 Knots

We anchored far into the bay well protected from the northerly wind as close as we felt comfortable to the fringing reef.

Next morning Karen spoiled us with pancakes topped with fresh fruit for breakfast. What an awesome way to start another fantastic tropical day in paradise.

Rob about to tuck into breakfast.

With Karen in the galley, boat food is never boring.

Stingray Bay is a ‘Green’ conservation zone so no fishing is permitted at all. Fortunately that’s not the case just around the point to the west so Rob and John zoomed around there in the dinghy for Rob to have a go at spearing us some fresh fish for dinner. John had a boring time sitting in the dinghy keeping an eye on Rod as he snorkelled back and forwards along the rocky point in a fruitless search for a suitable target. Much to John’s relief, he eventually decided to give up the hunt and headed back to the dinghy where unbelievably he discovered a good sized brown coral trout lurking around a rock right underneath. Thank you Mr Fish. Dinner was now catered for.

The nice coral trout Rob speared for dinner.

With the provisioning sorted, the three of us then headed ashore to explore Stingray Bay. The place lived up to its name extremely well with a number of very large stingrays spotted as we made our way over the shallows. The beach is split in two at high tide by a rocky outcrop in its centre but, lower on the tides, the sand stretches all the way across. At the eastern end of the bay, a small stream emerges from the rocky slopes behind to empty across beach.

Karen walking the beach in Goldsmith Island's Stingray Bay

John enjoying the shade.

A small stream emerges from the rocky slopes behind to empty across beach.

This area around Mackay experiences some of the biggest tidal ranges on the Queensland coast, and when the water receded as we wandered the beach, it really receded. We were left with quite a way to haul the dinghy before we could refloat her and return to the yacht. With the weight of a fifteen horsepower engine hanging off the stern we are so pleased we fitted a set of beaching wheels to the new dinghy. If not for them, we may have spent a few extra hours ashore waiting for the tide to come in.

When the tide goes out on Goldsmith Island it really goes way out.

OK! Now here’s a question. Why is it that when we’re anchored in a big, wide open bay with miles of room for everyone, people have to come and anchor right on top of us? It happens time and time again. We first experienced the phenomenon in the Mediterranean where we could be the only ones in a two mile wide bay but any boat appearing around the point could be relied on to come and anchor within spitting distance of where we lay.

Rob did eventually develop a defence strategy to ease the problem. On seeing a yacht approaching, he would get the binoculars and see what flag they were flying. If it was the Union Jack or Stars and Stripes he’d wait until they were getting close and then stroll up to the bow naked, ostensibly checking our anchor. The prudish Brits and Americans would turn tail and anchor as far away as possible. Unfortunately we discovered most Europeans were immune to this defence and would be more likely to also appear on deck naked as they shouted greetings and anchored in our virtual pockets.

When we returned to Our Dreamtime here at Goldsmith Island, a catamaran had anchored not far off our stern. Considering they had the whole bay to anchor in, they were annoyingly nearby but at least not dangerously close. However, an hour later another catamaran appeared around the point, appropriately named Bad Catas it turned out. Sure enough, it made a bee line for our particular piece of Stingray Bay and anchored very close to our bow. Rob had no need to drop his pants this time or even say a word for as soon as he walked forward on deck the solo sailor on the cat began pulling his chain back up. He apologised and explained he had no windless and had to pull up the anchor by hand so wanted to anchor as shallow as possible.

After moving a few metres further off our starboard he re-dropped his anchor, again annoyingly near but, in the mild northerly conditions, probably OK. Not wanting to seem grumps, we let the issue lay. That was a mistake.

Storm clouds building in the distance over the mainland.

After sunset a pretty impressive lightning show started to develop over the mainland giving us enough cause for concern to check the weather radar. Sure enough, there was a pretty nasty storm system heading our way. It looked like it may slide through a little south of us towards Brampton Island but we took all the usual precautions anyway. The dinghy was secured up on its davits, we made sure nothing loose was left on deck and centred our booms. (When at anchor, the main is usually swung out to one side or the other to avoid shading the solar panels on our cockpit roof while the mizzen is put to starboard to improve access on the stern.) Considering how warm it was below decks, we left closing up all the portholes, hatches and cockpit enclosure until we could hear the rain approaching.

Radar image of the approaching storm cell.

Rob's coral trout went onto the BBQ for a very tasty dinner before the weather turned.

Unfortunately the storm didn’t miss us and when it hit the wind roared into the bay swinging all the boats around. Our stern was now facing the reef which was far enough away not to be a danger as we began to stretch out our chain. Unfortunately the same could not be said for the cat nearby. It was on a far shorter amount of chain and we were fast approaching a collision. It only had a masthead light showing and was also extremely hard to see in the driving rain.

We started the engine and with John hanging half out the rear of the cockpit getting drenched while illuminating the bows of the cat with the spotlight, Rob motored forward and away each time we came close. Meanwhile Karen was unsuccessfully trying to raise the skipper of the other boat on the radio to ask him to turn some lights on so we could see him better. What he needed to do was let some more chain out so we wouldn’t reach him but with his bridle in place and no windless that would be impossible by hand even if we could have raised him.

As the wind gusted up to thirty-five knots and beyond with the rain pelting down and lightning flashing overhead with booming thunder, we spent the next half an hour or so repeatedly motoring away from the cat each time we stretched back on our chain and swung to within metres of it. When the worst had passed, we were able to call across to the skipper of the cat who was again very apologetic and quickly agreed to let out more chain as soon as the wind eased.

Fortunately once the storm was gone the gentle northerly conditions resumed and we were able to get a reasonable night’s sleep although Rob was up a few times checking on the still very nearby Bad Cat.

When you have this much open bay why do people need to anchor on top of us?

The morning after the storm.

When we arose the following morning, our near neighbour was still apologising but Rob was quick to tell him that shit happens and not to worry about it. It’s all another deposit in the experience bank. We should have asked him to move further away originally. We will certainly do so next time. No doubt he will also be keen to provide more swing room in future as well and turn his radio on in similar circumstances. We hadn't expected a storm to blow into the bay but after a similar experience with more damaging results in the Med we should have factored in the possibility. (To read what happened to us on Alcheringa CLICK HERE.)

We’ll all be smarter for this latest experience and our guest crewmember, John, learned about yet another aspect of the cruising life.

Now it was time to move on to our next tropical island paradise.

Good night from Goldsmith Island.

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Readmore → Goldsmith Island More fish great beach a badly anchored naughty cat and a storm

Friday, March 17, 2017

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Thursday, January 19, 2017

Magical Lady Musgrave Island One more must go ticked off the bucket list

4-5 December 2016

Click here to view our video of Lady Musgrave Island on YouTube

The next stop on our wanderings southward was to be Lady Musgrave Island. This was a destination we had been wanting to get to for quite some time but previously, whenever we were anywhere nearby, the weather was never right. Now though, things couldn’t have been more perfect.

We were able to raise the anchor reasonably early at Fitzroy Reef and make our way out through the narrow entrance just after low water slack before there was much current running. Even at the lowest tide there is always adequate depth in the channel. You just need to be careful that the strong tidal run doesn’t push your boat into the steep coral sides bordering the entrance. That’s why we always time our entry and exits around slack tide.

The boats on the inside of Fitzroy Reef enjoy calm water as we make our way around the outside in the swell.

The 25 mile run south past a number of reefs and coral cays was uneventful as the modest north easterly breeze comfortably pushed Our Dreamtime along. We were lining up the entrance into the lagoon at Lady Musgrave before long at all. The great thing about Lady Musgrave reef is that you can enter the lagoon via a straight and wide deep water channel. There has been some conjecture whether the channel into the lagoon is a naturally occurring phenomenon, or was cut into the lagoon by Japanese or Taiwanese fisherman, or as legend has it was widened by guano miners many years ago; it is recorded by 1938 surveys. A report from early guano miners of the late 1800s describes the channel thus ‘having a narrow deep-water entrance, enabling small vessels to enter or leave at any time of the tide. Being narrow it is somewhat difficult to locate.’ This would suggest the current broad channel is the result of widening at some stage by persons unknown since then.

Once through the entrance, a keen eye must be maintained from the bow as there is no shortage of coral bommies lurking under the surface of the thankfully very clear water. We anchored in the western end of the lagoon, not too far from the island itself.

Fitzroy Reef to Lady Musgrave Island 25.3 NM - 5 Hours 37 mins
Average Speed 4.5 Knots – Max Speed 7.7 Knots
For detailed zoom-able track click HERE

We anchored in the western end of the lagoon closer to the island. For zoom-able image click HERE.

First order of business was to lower the dinghy and head ashore for some exploration. What a treat. First we followed a path right through the centre of the island to the western side. The vegetation and bird life on Lady Musgrave is incredible. Lady Musgrave Island is has an amazing enchanted Forrest of Pisonia Trees which White Capped Tern's nest in abundance. The forest however does come under attack from high tides. So beautifully weathered driftwood are a very distinctive feature of the beach.

On the beach at Lady Musgrave Island. If there's a tree around Kristian will climb it.

Heading through the Pisonia forest on Lady Musgrave Island.

There are masses of bleached riftwood on the western side of Lady Musgrave.

We then followed the shoreline right around the southern end and back to where we began. December is turtle nesting time and an almost endless procession of the graceful creatures swam by very close to shore in the shallow water lapping the sand. The beach was striped with tracks across the sand left by turtles that had made the slow and painful journey up to the dunes to lay their eggs over preceding nights.

The were turtles everywhere we looked in the shallows.

What a hatchling left behind.

Birds, birds and more birds.

We were also amazed to discover a school of over twenty reef sharks circling continuously in a small area in only about a metre of water very close to shore.

One of the school of reef sharks circling in the shallows

After returning to the boat we donned our snorkelling gear and had a great time checking out an area of reef about forty meters behind our stern.

The reefs looked very healthy at Lady Musgrave Island.

Master Kristian of the deep.

Karen enjoying the lagoon at Lady Musgrave Island.

After a very full day we settled in on the aft deck for a light dinner of barbecued reef fish and a couple of white wines as Lady Musgrave turned on a truly stunning sunset.

Our second day at Lady Musgrave was very similar to the first. This time however it was just Admiral Nanny and Master Kristian that went ashore as Rob took the opportunity to stay on board for a morning at the key board blogging. Karen had plans of gently drifting in the currents with our action camera where the turtles had been the previous to get some good video footage of them as they swam by. Unfortunately trying to get an eight year old to float quietly was to be an ask. She described Kristian as being like an underwater threshing machine as he darted all over the place chasing anything that moved. Strangely enough no turtles ventures anywhere near.

Karen and Kristian heading ashore to get some turtle footage - yeah right.

He may be a relative novice at this snorkelling caper but he certainly does not lack confidence. At one stage a two metre reef shark swam by Karen’s side and when she pointed it out to Kristian, he took off after it like a torpedo. Karen reached out to stop him and was left holding just one of his swim fins in her hand as he disappeared in a boiling wake of water. Clearly the shark was more afraid of him than he of it and wisely made itself scarce at high speed.

We were all back in the water after lunch checking out an area of reef by a large tourist pontoon no longer in use. This part of the lagoon is green zone with no fishing etc permitted. Clearly someone told the fish that this was a safe spot because they were there in droves. We also took some banana for Kristian to hand feed them which proved a hit for all concerned.

Lady Musgrave Island from the reef we snorkelled.

Kristian and Karen and feeding the fish small pieces of banana.

Fish everywhere

All OK says Kristian

Oops! Someone lost an anchor.

A reef shark gliding by.

Lady Musgrave Island is truly magical and somewhere we will definitely return. Our day and a half in this tropical paradise was too short by a long, long way but Christmas was approaching. We felt we probably should make sure we reached Brisbane and return a grandson to his mother before then.

We could not have believed that the previous night’s sunset could be surpassed but that’s exactly what happened.

Good night from Lady Musgrave Island.

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Readmore → Magical Lady Musgrave Island One more must go ticked off the bucket list