Sunday, July 23, 2017
Discuss Sailboat hull and deck kits
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Tuesday, June 27, 2017
Deck Beams Stringers
A few months break from building came to an abrupt end when last week, I spent some quality time on fitting out the deck beams and stringers. This was challenging for me but ultimately quite satisfying as there were three joints for each beam to align. The centre stringer is reproduced from the full sized plan, so not much to go wrong there...it is curious to see that the stringer actually dips from the bow stem to the mast bulkhead, even though it rises higher than the sheer.
No doubt the expert builders can measure and cut each beam first time, but I found I had to nudge into each joint little by little. I toyed with the idea of purchasing a bench combination disc / belt sander, but my wife reminded me that this was just a hobby and so I took the advice of an earlier commentator on this blog to buy a farriers file, which I put to good use along with may smaller Japanese file, shown here refining the sloped mortice for the deck beam.
The deck beams were cut out on the bandsaw following the camber template which I made - rising 2" over 6'. This worked well for the mast bulkhead and beam. However as I approached the bow the deck beams needed to have a higher camber to fit in with the profile of the stringer, which I copied faithfully from the FSP. Also I fitted the breasthook proud of the sheerclamp to allow me profile it to the higher camber. It will be interesting to see how the ply deck sits on tops of these.
Earlier during the summer, I fabricated the centreboard. However it is still in its beta stage as I understand that attention to the profile dimensions will pay dividends in the boats pointing ability. I'm unsure if the specified dimensions include the fibreglass sheething. I have yet to glass the board - it's been many years since I used fiberglass cloth, so I'm not familiar with the current thinking on which material to use...any ideas?I have yet to pour lead ballast into the board which should be fun!
Before glueing up the deck beams and stringer, I had to cut out the hole of the bulkhead hatch. As JB points out this is better done at the bench before the bulkhead is fitted, alas, I omitted this step and so had the challenge of cutting out the hatch in situ. Once again my Bosch multi-tool came to the rescue which allow me cut a fine line to start the jigsaw, as I wanted to retain the cutout to be re-purposed as the hatch door. I decided not to use plastic hatches so I am optimistic that this plywood version will fit the bill.
Monday, June 19, 2017
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Sunday, April 23, 2017
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Sunday, April 9, 2017
New International Paint deck paints for old
After months of waiting for weather windows, I was able to finish the decks and the small area forward of the mooring cleats. Knowing that I would have to wait days, even weeks between starting and finishing, I used masking tape tape made especially for such work.
Its blue and not so cheap at R34 a roll, about U$3.50? made by 3M or Sellotape, its sold locally in 25mm (one inch) wide rolls only. I found I could remove it after many weeks and in the sun and rain.
The white is Internationals standard twin pack 990 Interthane white gloss, the grey is a mix I made myself using white and a very small amount of black, there is a similar mix in Internationals colour chart, they name it Dawn Grey. You will only find it in 5ltr packs but given the nature of the work Its well worth buying, the base coat will last for a long time, my black is now sixteen years old!
The original paints went down some sixteen years back, with two years in a boat park fitting out, then fourteen years in the sun and weather this paint has worked well. Interthane top coats are known for ease of re application but its important to de grease and wash down prior to application with Teepol Orange (clear) liquid soap before re painting.
Roy
Saturday, March 4, 2017
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Tuesday, January 24, 2017
Front deck and side lockers
Making some progress on the decks and side lockers. Using John Brooks advice in specifications, I used a sheet of fabric to measure out the deck. I managed - just to get both sides of of one 8 x 4 sheet of 3/8" ply. In doing so, I had to shorten the side deck panel by about 1", which will simply mean that the Sapele solid deck will need to come forward by an extra 1" - no issue there.
While I used the manufacturers straight edge, when I cam to laying the two sides on the deck, for some reason which I haven't been able to establish, they did not site together seamlessly, so I had to plane a little off to get a better fit. I don't imagine it will be a problem, as the deck will be covered in Dynel and epoxy, so a gap of 1 mm should get filled up quite easily.
I dry fitted the deck with 8 by 1" bronze screws. I must have used 50 or 60 screws in the process - 2 of which broke in the deck beams, despite setting the torque on th electrc screw driver at a low setting.
Here you can see the deck before it was screwed to the beams and the edges cleaned off with a flush trim router cutter.
Next I moved onto shaping and fitting the side lockers. John Brooks provides a full sized pattern in his plans for one of the locker sides. So I made a template from this and used this to spile an exact copy for all four sides of the lockers. However, this caused some head scratching, as the locker sides are fitted at stations 8 & 10 and these have slightly different hull profiles. This resulted in the locker sides running out of alignment, so I had to do quite a bit of refining. The next picture shows how the aft locker side is higher than the front, which would have cased the seat to run off level, unless lines to the aft bulkhead were checked. Sounds obvious, but anytime I have deviated from John's plans I have subsequently found this to be at my cost...hopefully I have it right this time. Once again a quick email response from John satisfied my doubts.
Next I started to create the V notches in the side locker panel. Based on a suggestion over on the BuildingGlued LapStrake Yahoo groups of using a jig on the router base, I made a simple base with a plastic strip guide. This worked quite well, though with some refinement could be better...ideally longer.
Here you can see the base of the jig attached to a small router and the
resulting grooves cut into the side panel.
Monday, September 5, 2016
Blog Diy kayak work deck
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